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October 20, 2012 |
Like most practiced knitters, if I’m making a garment where fit matters, I knit a gauge swatch. You know, that little 5X5 square (admittedly, mine usually end up being rectangular on account of overzealous cast-ons) that lets you figure out how many stitches, and less crucially, rows, fit across an inch? When I follow a pattern, that little swatch is my Rosetta stone – it lets me know if the sweater with a 42-inch bust measurement really will accommodate a 42-inch bust or it lets me know if I need to make modifications to ensure a good fit.
Naturally, I started my first design project with a gauge swatch. 5(and a half)x5 inches of Mirasol Yarns Lachiwa on 3.5mm needles later, I had a lovely little almost-square to wash, block, and measure. This modest bit of handiwork would serve as the foundation for what I knew would be a masterpiece of clever design and impressive craftsmanship.
And then I cast on. Well, first I worked out the math – determined how many stitches I would need to achieve the correct chest measurement, decided where I wanted the neck opening to fall, and figured the appropriate number of stitches to start with. Then I cast on. When I finished lopping the yarn onto my needle, I faltered. Even though I had not knit so much as a single row, I could tell that my garment – a baby dress with a knit bodice and fabric skirt – was going to turn out much smaller than the 12 month size I had planned. So I cast on a few more stitches for good measure and began to knit.
Once I strayed from the path I had carefully devised via simple arithmetic, I did not return. I intuited my way through the sleeve shaping (raglan increases) and arbitrarily decided the armscye depth. Pretty early on, I could see the bodice was going to be too big. But I persevered. The dress was, after all, intended for a growing baby. If she couldn’t wear it now, then surely she could in a few months time. Only after I knit to within a couple of inches from the hem did I realize how long it would take for Addie to grow into her dress. My panicked addition of several stitches had resulted in a bodice generous enough to fit a two-year-old.
She looks thrilled, doesn't she? In fairness, tolerating a photo shoot while wearing an ill-fitting dress isn't my idea of fun, either.
I resolved to finish, rather than frog the too-large top. I guess I wanted some artifact of my first attempt at designing so that years – maybe even months, depending on how quickly I improve, from now, I can laugh at my novice decisions. In the couple of months since I bound off and sewed on the fabric skirt Addie has grown; her dress is no longer clownishly humongous, but it still hangs off her.
Before the end of the year, I’ll knit a second version of this dress and this time I will respect the swatch and listen to what it tells me. I’ll let you know how it turns out.
I hadn’t been a knitter for long when I decided I might like to design my own knitwear. Developing ideas, hoarding them in a notebook – I’ve never found that difficult. But during those early years, and even in recent years, I always stopped short of executing my designs. A lot of it had to do with fear. What if everyone hated it? What if the fit was all wrong? What if I, lacking the skills or experience to puzzle through a design issue, got stuck mid-sweater? What if I hated it, and after all those hours, not to mention expensive yarn, committed to a failure of a project? Clearly I based my speculation on failure, not success.
Then, a couple of years ago, I knit myself a sweater sans pattern. Before you congratulate me for overcoming my fears and starting down the path to successful knitwear design, I should admit that while I did not follow a pattern to the letter, I did base my work on Elizabeth Zimmerman’s EPS system. (An aside: if you are a knitter and you do not know of Elizabeth Zimmerman, get thee to Amazon or your local bookstore and buy Knitting Workshop or Knitting Without Tears. They will change your life, or at least, they will change the way you knit.) Even using the EPS to figure the math, it took me three tries to knit a wearable garment, and the finished sweater was not perfect. After a few wears, I grudgingly recognized that additional shaping might have prevented the sag of extra fabric at the middle back. A few weeks after that, I regretted my decision to nix the planned colorwork yoke after a couple of unsuccessful attempts to squeeze in too-large motifs. And now, as I look at the photo, it's obvious that a round yoke construction absent of bust darts isn't the most flattering choice for my, ahem, ample chest.
It was the birth of my daughter, Adelaide, that finally inspired me to keep going even after I had fully realized a design on notebook paper. I have knit her many sweaters from patterns, but the ones I’ve designed myself are special. They are truly one-of-a-kind, and I poured my love into them even before I knit the first stitch. Now that I have actually completed a few designs from concept to finished object, my knitting choices have changed. I can’t commit myself to knitting from someone else’s pattern, but I approach each of my new design projects with excitement and high expectations. I’m now wondering why I waited so long to begin designing, and I am glad I’m not waiting any longer.